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Encyclopedia > Walter Bonatti

Walter Bonatti (born 1930) is an Italian born climber who set new standards in post-war Alpine climbing. Famed for his climbing panache, he pioneered little known and technically difficult climbs in the Alps, Himalaya and Patagonia. Among his notable climbs include a solo climb of a new route on the south-west pillar of Aiguille du Dru in August 1955. Bonatti was at the centre of a climbing controversy regarding the first successful attempt of K2 by Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni in 1954, where as a 24-year old he helped ferry oxygen cylinders to the summiteers at Camp 9. In the early 1990's, two summit photos proved his story that the climbers were using oxygen. Walter Bonatti was awarded the French Legion d'Honneur for saving the lives of two fellow-climbers in a disaster in the Alps. Bonatti is the author of a number of books about climbing and mountaineering. 1930 (MCMXXX) is a common year starting on Wednesday. ... The West face of the Petit Dru above the Chamonix valley near the Mer de Glace. ... The Himalaya is a mountain range in Asia, separating the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau. ... Patagonia is that portion of South America which, to the east of the Andes, lies south of the Neuquén and Río Colorado rivers, and, to the west of the Andes, south of (42°S). ... August is the eighth month of the year in the Gregorian Calendar and one of seven Gregorian months with the length of 31 days. ... 1955 (MCMLV) was a common year starting on Saturday of the Gregorian calendar. ... K2 is the second highest mountain on Earth. ... One of the two climbers of an Italian expedition that were the first to reach the summit of K2 on July 31, 1954. ... One of the two climbers of an Italian expedition that were the first to reach the summit of K2 on July 31, 1954. ... 1954 (MCMLIV) was a common year starting on Friday of the Gregorian calendar. ... French Legion of Honor The Légion dhonneur (Legion of Honor ( AmE) or Legion of Honour ( ComE)) is an Order of Chivalry awarded by the President of France. ... The West face of the Petit Dru above the Chamonix valley near the Mer de Glace. ... Climbers on Valkyrie at the Roaches. ... Mountaineering is the sport or hobby or profession of walking, hiking and climbing up mountains. ...


Books by Walter Bonatti

  • The Mountains of my Life. Modern Library, 2001. ISBN 037575640X
  • Great Days. Gollancz, 1974. ISBN 0575018151
  • On the Heights. Hart-Davis, 1964. ISBN B0000CMDRK
  • Magic of Mont Blanc. Gollancz, 1985. ISBN 0575035609
  • K2 (Italian). Baldini e Castoldi, 1998. ISBN 8880890727

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Walter Bonatti had made the first ascent of this route alone over five days in 1955.
Walter Bonatti was the hero of heroes; a man way ahead of his time whose mountaineering prowess was awe-inspiring.
It was the first sign that the Bonatti Pillar in its entirety was soon to disappear, alongside the famous Harlin Route on the west face and large chunks of the American Direct.
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